Horse Riding in Cape Tribulation

MY TRIP TO FAR NORTH QUEENSLAND
Follow Kate as she dives, climbs, eats and sunbakes her way through lush Far North Queensland.

To be in the mindset of the pioneering explorers, discovering virgin lands to report back to the west, its only fair that you imagine horses in this mix. Although it'd be almost impossible to navigate the untouched terrain on horse back, I get a sense that the exploring spirit of Captain Cook would have involved horse - this may be historically untrue, but it's still something that could be adapted into a major motion picture of the landing of Captain Cook - at least in my historically loose adaptation.

Exploring Cape Tribulation on horseback
Horseback is a rugged and beautiful way to see the Cape Tribulation coastline and the surrounding rainforest. There is only one company which offers horse riding in Cape Tribulation, with two tours each day at 8am or 1.30pm, both for approximately 2 hours. We opted for the afternoon tour as the weather was mild at this time of year (July). I think if you go during the height of summer, it would be excruciatingly hot and uncomfortable as you have to have long pants on.

We were picked up from the hotel by our cowboy guide, he looked the part - a cowboy hat, a loose cowboy shirt, genuinely distressed jeans and worn in cowboy boots - he sounded the part with this slow drawl - and acted the part with crazed driving to each of the hotels for pickups.

Once we arrived at the ranch, which was little more than a shack with a telephone line (no electricity) where we grabbed a helmet (which smelled) and were asked to write down our riding experience and our weight. The other guide who was calling the shots looked a lot like Daniel Craig (the new gritty and controversial bad boy James Bond). Weight is on par with age for a middle aged woman, in terms of sensitivity, but you didn't want to break the horses' back (literally) and everyone knowing your heavy and ashamed. We signed our insurance forms (kids under 13 are not allowed to go on rides as the insurance can not cover this) indemnifying the tour operator for any injuries etc - who knows what else but I just signed away. Then we were allocated horses based on height and weight. I got a great horse called xxx who had a partner called xxx - they are gay. I was told as long as my horse was close to his partner (close meaning his snout was in xxx's mane) then it'd be fine. My horse was the younger better looking equine, whereas xxx was the older and feisty.

The ABC of horse riding
A - Riders who are absolutely confident with every aspect of riding, have several years experience, and continue to ride frequently.
B - Riders who have ridden at least 30 times, riders who are confident controlling a horse.
C - Complete beginners with no riding experience, riders who have ridden 30 times or used to ride years ago, riders with some experience but who are not confident trotting, cantering or controlling a horse.

Unfortunately, as I was on holidays, I don't really listen to instructions and I found myself on the horse not knowing what to do with the reigns. Xxx was going a bit weird (not like the other quiet and idle horses) and I was just sitting there and he was eating and sniffing xxx's butt - I was afraid.

The ranch is located on either side of the main road, up high on a hill with sweeping views of the rainforest. It was one of the most spectacular properties in the Cape, and we were soon to be guided down to the other section of the ranch, which backs right onto the beach. It was amazing that this was private property as it was right in the middle of the Cape Tribulation National Park. Alas, we started with a walk through the property, down tracks specially designed for the tour, which weaved through dense rainforest terrain, and also some creeks. It was a little frightening to see hoofs perched on unstable rocks under water, but all those nights spent watching McLeods Daughters (ok, just the adverts) taught me that horses can traverse creeks and water well - it just didn't feel like it when I was traversing. My only tip is to hold on tight - but not too tight or your horse won't like it and lean back if you're going downhill.

Once we had walked to the beach, we stopped for some photo opportunities. we were split into two groups based on riding experience. I was in the beginner group and instead of trotting and cantering along the beach, we walked to where the horses couldn't run wild along the beach - apparently it's safer to do the trotting and cantering where the horse doesn't have a place to run away, but this is probably more of a benefit for the tour. I'd prefer to fall off on the beach - sure the sand is hard but it's probably not as hard as a rock or tree root in the rainforest. I found it odd that horses were allowed on the beach considering their waste is just lying on the beach. Walking along the beach, you don't expect to see horse manure but there it was - I thought it was a bit offensive to the landscape.

My horseriding experience was a good one
Once we finish with our brief foray on the beach, we went back thorugh the rainforest to Myall Creek. In warmer weather, you can go for a dip here but this time we stopped for a cracker and dip and some drinks. When I got off the horse, I was surprised that I had jelly legs and it was hard to walk for about a minute. We washed our hands in Myall Creek (a fresh water swimming hole) and fed the fish which get a regular feed of Savoy biscuit crumbs from the tours each day. We hopped back on after a small break and began more advanced concepts in horse riding - cantering. It was frightening, maybe it would reincarnate my childhood memory of a horse trying to buck me off when I was 10, or maybe I'm not at one with my animal self or because I don't like to feel out of control - there could be many psychological reasons, but I was afraid. I was afraid that my horse sensed my fear (because apparently animals can do that) - things were just spiralling!

I was ok. I didn't fall off but there were times I wanted to get off. I think if you're into horse riding then this would be a great activity. I enjoyed the experience - even if it was only to realise that horses aren't my thing.